India’s Matrilineal Tribes: Discover the People and Culture of Meghalaya
by Idarilang Syiemlieh on 20 January 2021
The Origins and People of Meghalaya
Meghalaya is a landlocked state bounded on the northern and eastern frontier by Assam, and on the southern frontier by Bangladesh. The lush state was carved out of the Assam’s Hill areas that sprawls across 22,429 Sq. Km with an estimated population of 3.4 million. Despite attaining its independence on 21 January 1972, Meghalaya’s rich culture and tradition are still unheard of in many parts of India. Not only is Meghalaya a breath-taking beauty, the people and culture will leave you in awe and you simply cannot help yourself but fall in love with it. In recent years, Meghalaya has garnered a lot of attention for its ethereal natural landscapes and has quickly become everyone’s favorite tourist destination. But what makes Meghalaya truly stand out from the rest is its distinctive language, folk dance, dress and costumes, rituals, customary laws, festivals, food habits, religion, and other cultural practices that are indigenous to the state.
A tale as old as time, it was believed that originally 16 families existed, nine in heaven and seven on earth. It acted as the bridge which connected the earth and heaven which but as humankind grew so did the sins, the vine was severed when sin polluted the earth. The people were divided into 16 families each having its own chiefs. There are predominantly three tribes in Meghalaya the Khasi, Jaintia, and Garo tribes were formed. The Garos inhabit the western area and identify themselves as Achik-Mande which translates to Hill People. The central area by the Khasis who make up to 50% of the state’s population and the eastern area by the Jaintias. The Khasi, Jaintia, Bhoi, War is collectively known as the ‘Hynniewtrep’ which translates to Seven Huts. Apart from the three tribes the state also houses many other lesser-known communities such as the Hajong, Sakachep, Biate, Koch, Dalu, Margnar, and the Nepali.
Tribes of Meghalaya: The Khasi, Jaintias or Pnars and Garo
One very interesting and distinct features which differentiates Meghalaya from the other 220 odd tribes of NE is that only Khasis speak an Austro-Asiatic (AA) language. It is considered that the language is the oldest identifiable language group of a region that spreads from east India to southeast Asia and is the only surviving dialect of the Mon-Khmer family of languages. Various studies and research have believed that the origin of the Khasi and Jaintias can be traced back to the Mongolian race who were immigrants and were related to the Shaan tribesman of Myanmar. The Garos belong to the Tibeto-Burman race and the land they inhabit also known as Achik-land which also belongs to the Bodo family. Another difference is in their language. Like many tribal societies in the North-Eastern region, the Khasi did not have a written script and the oral tradition for centuries (ki parom) until the British reign came and Christian missionaries introduced the Roman script to give shape to the Khasi written word in 1841. There are no native speakers of Dravidian in the Northeast which is the major language in mainland India.
Religion
In olden times, the Khasi religious system was an amalgamation of Pantheism and Hinduism, they believed in The Creator — U Blei Nongthaw and draw their beliefs from the elements of nature such as mountains, water, and natural objects. Despite sharing similar religious beliefs, Jaintia’s religion is more influenced by Hinduism. The Garos believe in the “Supreme God” locally known as “Dakgipa Rugipa Stugipa Pantugipa or Tatara Rabuga STura PanTura”, or the Creator. The other spirits are the representatives of the Creator. The spirits though never worshipped are appeased with religious sacrifices for good crops and welfare of the community and for protection from destructions and dangers. The headman is an integral part of the village and acts as a religious head.
However, in the late nineteenth century, we see a transition during British rule, the Christian missionaries settled in the state which gradually resulted in many people converting their faith to Christianity. Today the state is adorned with beautiful churches as a majority of the state’s population are Christians. By and large, the culmination of regional vibrancy in the form of regionalism has shaped these three broad regions and helped them to evolve independently.
Truly a Feminist State
For centuries societies across the globe, the patriarchal structure is commonly practiced, and it is still widely prevalent in modern times. However, there are only six individual communities across the globe where matriarchal societies have thrived in a male-dominated world one of which is our very own tribes in Meghalaya. When we talk about the status of Indian women in society, history would have described the atrocities faced by women for generations be it the Sati system, dowry, or female infanticide. It will be hard for people to comprehend that somewhere in a small corner of the country women are treated equally. In Khasi, Pnar, and Garo tribes both men and women hold equal power and authority, but the lineage is traced by the mother side only and the children take their mother’s family name.
Just because the state is a matrilineal society, it does not emasculate men as they are regarded as the Head of the family, and the Uncle usually presides over family meetings and take decisions in family matters. The men are treated with respect as they are the bread earners and the protector of his family.
According to the traditional Khasi culture, the youngest daughter or “Ka Khadduh” is eligible to inherit the ancestral property. If ‘Ka Khadduh’ happens to have no female heir or dies without any daughter surviving her, her next elder sister inherits the ancestral property, and after her, the youngest daughter of that sister then the house is given to the daughter of the mother’s sister. All other remaining property will be shared among all the daughters of the family and the sons are not entitled to the ancestral property. The purpose of doing so was to ensure that the property should remain within the clan and not go to the father’s clan.
In cases where the Ka Khadduh wants to forego or sell the ancestral property, she must obtain consent and get the unanimous approval of the uncles and brothers. Among the War-Khasis, however, the property passes to the children, male or female, in equal shares but among the War-Jaintias, only the female children get the inheritance.
The Garo family consists of a simple family structure i.e., the husband, wife, and children. Striking similarities to the Khasi and Pnar cultures can also be seen in the Garo family where the family increases with the marriage of the heiress, generally the youngest daughter also known as ‘Nokna’ and her husband ‘Nokrom’. The heiress inherits the ancestral property, and the other sisters are entitled to use the family plot for cultivation and other purposes. Unlike the Khasis, the heiress need not be the youngest daughter, the heiress is chosen among any of the daughters; usually, the most loved and obedient girl is bequeathed as the successor. The other daughters go away with their husbands and follow a nuclear family structure.
In modern times, the tradition has evolved and has become inclusive irrespective of gender and it is solely based upon the family’s decision as to how they want to divide their inheritance among their children.
Importance of bloodlines in Marriages
Marriages around the world is an auspicious day for the two people entering a holy union. They may differ significantly in terms of customs and rituals, but one thing that remains the same is the emotions that they evoke. The two tribes, Khasi and Pnar as per customs while asking for the bride’s hand, usually the maternal uncle of the boy accompanied by the boy seek the approval of the girl and her family, and in doing so, the marriage will be fixed on that day itself. There is also a ceremony that includes the exchange of rings known as “Sanjan”- symbolizing that the bride and the bridegroom to complete the union. Thereafter, the bride and groom can carry out the wedding as per their customs in the church. During the marriage, the bridegroom must pay for the bride’s wedding attires and if he is well to do, he even contributes towards the feast as well.
Marriages in Meghalaya within a clan or the “Cognates” (Ki Kur) from the mother’s side are not just frowned upon but it is considered as a formidable sin. If a couple happens to go against the traditions, they would be outcasted by the community by crossing the big river and they are never allowed to enter the village again. The people were punished by drawing three lines known as Khilainuid on their foreheads. According to myths their actions will have dire consequences as it believed that bad omens will follow them, for instance, they will be eaten by a tiger or struck by lightning. By instilling the fear of punishment by God it helped to ensure that folks marry outside their clan. They will be shunned by their religion, and no one is supposed to provide solace at the time of his/her death as a punishment.
Marriages in the Garo tribe are however a little different when compared to the other tribes since it is usually the girls who propose a match to the boys. The Garo marriage too adheres to the same laws, viz; Exogamy and A’kim which means belonging to the same clan. The Garos too prohibit marriages within the same clan. It further goes to an extent of not allowing a man or a woman who has once had an interclan marriage to be free to remarry a person of another clan, even after the death of his/ her spouse. They have a custom of providing another wife/ husband from the same clan as the spouse in case if the husband/wife dies. Usually, when a wife dies, one among the sisters of the deceased is given in marriage. Similarly, when a husband dies, one among the nephews of the deceased husband is given to her. It is only when no substitute can be arranged that the marriage bond is broken, and the man/woman is free to marry any one of their own choices.
Ethnic Wear
There is something wonderful and intricate about traditional ethnic wear that exemplifies the beauty of the state even more as it represents the simplicity and diversity of the cheerful people of Meghalaya. The Khasi tribe has the ‘Jainkryshah” which a check pattern cotton is commonly worn by the ladies which also acts as an apron. On formal
occasions, the Khasi ladies wear a dress called ‘Jainsem Dhara’ which is a long piece of Assam Muga silk that flows loosely to the ankles. It is then pinned to a blouse having full sleeves with beautiful lacework details around the neck. To complete the look ‘Tapmohkhlieh’ or head-shawl is either worn by knotting both ends behind the neck or is arranged in a stylish manner as done with a shawl.
The Jaintia women adorned a similar attire as that of the Khasis, but with the addition of a ‘Kyrshah’ — a checkered cloth tied round the head during harvesting. On formal occasions, however, she dons a velvet blouse, drapes a striped cloth called ‘Thoh Khyrwang’, sarong style around her waist, and knots at her shoulder an Assam MUGA piece hanging loose to her ankles. Accessories include a necklace called ‘Paila’ made up of red coral and beads covered in foil, golden earrings, and a golden or silver crown consisting of silver threads on the back. They also have a pendant called ‘Kynjri Ksiar’ which is made of 24-carat gold. The men of the Khasi Tribe wear a long cloth around their waist which is unstitched resembling a Dhoti which can be worn along with an embroidered jacket and turban. During the festival of Ka Shad Suk Mynsiem, male dancers wear a beautiful turban made up of silk along with a golden or silver plate semi-circular in shape which can be worn around the neck.
In contrast, the Garo women wear eking which is a small cloth worn around the waist and we go to the densely populated places women wear long dresses that are made up of cotton. The women belonging to this tribe wear a blouse along with a handmade lungi called Dakmanda, which is wrapped around the waist like a ‘Mekhla’ worn by Assamese women. The Garo ladies wear ‘Rigitok’, an ornament made of long barrel-shaped beads of cornelian or red glass and it some cases it is made from brass. Men belonging to the Garo tribe wear a loincloth as their traditional dress.
Festivals
The popular festivals observed in Meghalaya is the’ Nongkrem Dance’ or ‘Pomblang Nongkrem’ which is a five day long religious festival of the Khasis. It is held annually at a village called Smit the capital of the Khyrim Syiemship near Shillong. The young virgin girls and men performed together and dance in the open. The women wear silk costumes paired with golden or silver crowns with yellow flowers placed on them.
Shad Sukmysieum which translates to ‘The Dance of Joyful Heart’ is another festival of the Khasis held annually at Shillong during the second week of April.
Behdiengkhlam is a spectacular sight that is celebrated annually in the month of July at Jowai, Jaintia Hills. It has a similar vibe to that of the La Tomatina festival in Spain, except the tomatoes are replaced with muddy water in Behdiengkhlam festival.
Wangla festival also known as the ‘Festival of Hundred drums’ in honor of Saljong (Sun-god) of the Garos for a week during October-November. Since most of the people in Meghalaya have adopted Christianity, Christmas is celebrated with a hustle and bustle, and the state is decked up in pretty lights and people attending church masses.
Preserving our Culture and Traditions
Modernity has posed challenges to many generations of traditions and cultures all over the world and it has become hard to preserve the old age customs. One such dilemma is that matrilineal society today is facing hardships due to mixed marriages and imitation of other cultures. There are radical modern youths who wish to change the matrilineal system like taking the identity from the father, which might create confusion for future generations.
Self-preservation of our unique culture is not just a responsibility but a moral obligation to represent our diverse and rich culture for generations to come. The negligence and ignorance due to cultural differences and the geographical location of northeast India have left it under the shadows. It is time for Meghalaya to step out of the shadows and shine in the grandeur of its own magnificence. It deserves more than just a place on the map, let the people know Meghalaya’s brimming and rich culture far and wide.